Rogue Chocolatier

He's 24, doesn't have a driver's license and considers himself a bit of a rogue. As in, "operating outside normal controls" - not a thief. Meet Colin Gasko, a true bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturer based in Minneapolis. He doesn't do what is normal and easy in the chocolate world, such as buying couverture, re-melting it and adding bizarre ingredients. Without the funds to purchase expensive European chocolate making equipment, he buys what he can, tinkers with it and improvises. And when it comes time to delivering these bars, he'll jump on his bicycle if he can't hitch a ride. Normal, no, but this process results in some very fine chocolate.

Gasko got his start while working at Whole Foods and realizing he could make chocolate just as good as what they sold. Like many new American chocolate makers, he took to the library to read up on the physics of chocolate production. (No joke -this happens!) Despite the new wave of small batch chocolate makers in America, we've heard it's still a very difficult craft to learn. If you just call up Guittard or Ghirardelli, will they show you their tempering machine? Not likely. That was the impetus behind several of these guys (and it really is all guys) starting the Craft Chocolate Makers of America. No word yet on whether Rogue Chocolatier will be invited to the club.

We picked up our Rogue bars at Fog City News on a recent Chocolate Tour. Gasko has three 70% cacao bars currently for sale in San Francisco: the Sambirano (Madagascar), the Hispaniola (Dominican Republic) and the Rio Caribe (Venezuala). Since these are all single origin, I wish he included a little more information on the packaging about the beans and plantations he uses. But I applaud his no-nonsense tasting notes, where he has assigned each bar 3 simple flavors. My favorite was the Rio Caribe, with notes of coffee, blood orange and nuts. The bars retail for $6.99 and make a very pretty gift set for chocolate connoisseurs.

It takes Gasko 30 hours to make one batch of chocolate, and an additional 15 to mold and package that batch. One might imagine a business consultant suggesting he make larger batches or at least hire a "man in India" to help with the wrapping. That might be normal but we are, after all, talking about a rogue. Let us know what you think about these bars by leaving a comment here or sending us an email at info@gourmetwalks.com.

The Dragee: then and now

What confection sounds more glamorous than the French dragee (dra-jay)? I envision myself lounging on a divan, with a kir royale in one hand and a bundle of the classic sugar coated almonds in the other. Though dragees have been popular in Europe since the Middle Ages, we are finding new interpretations of them right here in San Francisco - beginning with Recchiuti's collection of chocolate dragees in peanut butter, cherry, almond and hazelnut.

The term "dragee" comes from the French verb "drague," meaning to dredge. After extravagant medieval banquets, the dragee (originally simply a spiced lump of sugar) was offered to aid in digestion and freshen the breath. In the traditional version, the roasted almond center is dredged in sugar, layer after layer, until the final shell is polished smooth. Just as Aix-en-Provence is known for their calissons, the French city of Verdun would lie in obscurity if not for the dragee. Verdun (in the Lorraine region of Eastern France) has been making dragees since the 13th century.

If you've ever flipped through the sumptuous photos in Martha Stewart Weddings, you've seen bundles of pastel colored dragees presented as wedding favors. Because the almond is technically a seed, it has long been associated with fertility. And so dragees have come to symbolize fertility, prosperity and good luck - what we all wish for the bride and groom. It's even been said that the contrast of the sweet shell and the bitter nut illustrate the "for better or worse" of married life.

Dragees are not without political controversy, especially here in California. Public health advocates have questioned the advisability of downing the metallic dragees popular in cake and cookie decorating. The metals used may contain mercury, and even if they didn't, I'd worry about losing a tooth! Since 2003, metallic dragees have been banned for sale in California - but easily available online. This brings me to the superiority of chocolate dragees...

If you live in the Bay Area and are looking to add dragees to your Easter table, I have some suggestions. For the classic style, head straight to Richart or Teuscher. Both spots, located on the same Sutter Street Union Square block, are favorites on our Chocolate Tours. But for something a little more inventive, visit Recchiuti in the Ferry Building. My favorite are the slightly crunchy "Peanut Butter Pearls" (you won't find these in Europe) and the "Cherries Two Ways" which are positively addictive. If you can't decide, his "Asphalt Jungle" is a combo pack. One of my favorite online options for dragees is the Cocoa Room. With flavors like "amaretto tiramisu" and "pumpkin spice," these trendy confections can double as artwork when displayed in glass jars.

What is your favorite place for a dragee fix? Let us know here, or at info@gourmetwalks.com.

New Good Things

Do I ever get tired leading the same Chocolate Tour, week after week? No, because the incredibly talented chocolate makers we work with are always coming out with something new. We love tasting what's new and also getting reactions from the chocolate lovers on our tour. Not everything we try is a winner, but below are our favorites of the last few months:

Scharffen Berger Asante Bar
With the factory set to close and Joseph Schmidt soon to retire, here is some good news coming out of Berkeley - the new Scharffen Berger Asante bar. This single origin bar from Ghana is the second in Scharffen Berger's Chocolate Makers series. Locals and tourists are loving its deep chocolate flavor, with just a hint of cherry and spice. It also makes for a fun comparison with the 68% Tome Acu bar - which really does have the finish of a fine dessert wine. We can't wait to see what country Scharffen Berger will turn to for its next bar in this series.

Ginger Elizabeth Bars
What were you doing when you were 24? Sitting in a cubicle, I'm afraid - definitely not running an eponymous chocolate company. Ginger Elizabeth has set up an elegant chocolaterie in Sacramento, and although not making bean-to-bar chocolate, she is melting and mixing with a careful touch. She has apprenticed with big names in the pastry world, including Jacques Torres and Daniel Budd. While a trip to Sacramento is a must for her filled chocolates, three of her bars are for sale at Fog City News. A definite favorite for hazelnut lovers is the Crunchy Gianduja Bar.

Schoggi Drinking Chocolate
Why is it so hard to find good drinking chocolate in San Francisco? You may know about Boulette's Larder's rich and creamy chocolate, but Schoggi on Yerba Buena Lane has been making authentic drinking chocolate for the past couple months. The recipe is simple: melted bittersweet Swiss chocolate, cream and a hint of spice. And for those of us who are ready to trash our Swiss Miss mixes, Schoggi sells little bags of the drinking chocolate to replicate the experience at home.

Christopher Elbow Chocolate Marshmallow
With such a wide and impressive assortment of international chocolates, there is always something new and delicious at Cocoa Bella. Micheal Mischer fans should take note that Cocoa Bella is now selling Mischer truffles, with unique flavors like "root beer" and "banana split." But my favorite new thing has to be the Christopher Elbow chocolate marshmallow. Think mallomar, only with homemade marshmallow and fine gourmet chocolate. And if you're a coconut lover, like I am, the flaked coconut coating will make this confection simply irresistable.

And if this is not enough, we can't wait to simple four new flavors coming out of Michael Recchiuti's kitchen next week. Just in time for spring, we've heard that cherries will be well represented.

Original Beans

Original Beans has been in the news lately because of what many consider its exorbitant price - $14.95 for a standard 3 oz bar. True, it's more than double the cost of fine chocolate bars like Scharffen Berger and Michel Cluizel. But after sampling their delectable "Beni Wild Harvest" and "Cru Virunga" bars, I've decided that $13.95 is not such a bad price for an occasional indulgence. And if you think it's the most expensive chocolate out there, it's not even close. The Bonnat Porcelana bar, available on Chocosphere for $21.95, is still 57% more expensive, and you can't even boast that your purchase is good for the planet.

"The planet: replant it" is Original Beans' slogan - and a fun tongue twister. For each bar you buy, Original Beans plants a tree in the region of the bean's origin. If you take the extra step of visiting their web site and typing in your bar's lot number, you'll learn more about the plantations Original Beans is working with, with pictures of nurseries, plantation farmers and conservation programs. Recyclable packaging? check. Renewable energy in chocolate production? check. Offsetting of fossil fuel use? check. It should be no surprise, then, that the headquarters of this unique chocolate company is San Francisco.

Another bean-to-bar chocolate company in San Francisco? Not exactly. Original Beans co-founder Lesal Rusky has two partners in Amsterdam and produces the chocolate in Switzerland. So it's a good thing carbon offsetting is taken care of, because these beans have been around before they make it to San Francisco retailers. The Swiss influence is also evident in the taste and texture of these bars. The "Beni Wild Harvest," made from Bolivian beans, boasts a 60 hour conch. It's incredibly rich and voluptuous. If you prefer the taste of rough and unprocessed bars (like Taza), then Original Beans is not for you. But lovers of brands like Valrhona and Swiss or Belgian chocolate are bound to enjoy Original Beans bars.

Both Fog City News and Chocolate Covered carry the two Original Beans bars I sampled, as well as their Esmeraldas bar, a 42% cacao milk chocolate bar with fleur de sel. Look for the distinctive slate packaging with delicate silver vines. And know that, even if you're spending more than you would on a bottle of wine, you're helping some real vines blossom in cacao country.

Candy Darling open in TenderNob

This year has been a big one for Andy Warhol in San Francisco. First, the Contemporary Jewish Museum showed "Warhol's Jews," a series of 10 portraits by Andy Warhol. Next, the De Young will be opening its "Warhol Live" music based exhibit on Valentine's Day. And finally, Candy Darling recently opened on Sutter and Jones, making it the first chocolate shop in the TenderNob. The name comes from one of Warhol's muses, a transexual who died young with these famous last words: "I am just so bored by everything. You might say bored to death."

I visited the shop, whose friendly owners live in the hood, in early January and it still looked like they were moving in. The white walls were clean and bare, just waiting for some Andy Warhol portraits. The kitchen, which they plan to rent out to aspiring chefs, is visible and on some days you may even see them in the midst of making truffles. Clear glass canisters line two walls filled with the usual assortment of candy, from gumdrops to lollipops to gummie bears. But that was of no concern to me; I was there for the chocolate.

When I inquired about the prices, I had to ask again to be sure I heard correctly. $10 a pound! For a bit of perspective, imported French chocolate will run you $120/pound (Richart) or $75/pound (Teuscher). Even local Recchiuti is up to $60/pound. So if you've lost your job thanks to this economy, or are worried about losing your job, then Candy Darling is the place to go for an inexpensive chocolate indulgence. But like mama said, you get what you pay for. So don't expect to see the Mona Lisa artfully displayed on top of your chocolate, exotic or rare ingredients, fancy names or 7 layers of coordinated packaging. These are simple truffles, hand made using Guittard, with just 4 varieties available when I visited. They are rich, buttery and quite large - similar to the famous Joseph Schmidt "American" truffle.

A specialty of Candy Darling is the spicy ginger dipped in chocolate, as well as apricots. The owners, who have been in the confectionery business for many years, have plans to expand their line-up and even sell something frozen in the retro-cooler. Maybe professional labels and gift packages are in the works too. I'll be back to Candy Darling - and I hope the neighborhood, transexuals and all, gives them a warm welcome!

A Chocolate Report from the Fancy Food Show

I spent today turning down mildly flavored bottled waters, organic margarita mixes, acai goji energy bars and sea salt everything - only to focus on chocolate bars and confections at the Fancy Food Show. Almost every major chocolate manufacturer was represented, from bean-to-bar manufacturers like Republica del Cacao to truffle makers like Joseph Schmidt. Naturally, sampling was a part of the experience and, like guests on our Chocolate Tours, I learned to control my portions and squirrel away what I could for later.

Rather than list the "best" chocolates I tried today, I've synthesized the experience into the top 7 trends in gourmet chocolate right now. For the most part, customers seem to be buying into these trends - especially when the quality is high, the price point reasonable and the packaging impressive:

1) Nibs
Scharffen Berger has been selling nibs for many years now, but newer companies are now either mixing nibs into bars, coating nibs in chocolate or roasting nibs and selling them straight up. Nibs are everywhere! Sweet Riot, a 3 year old company formed primarily around the sale of nibs, offers 3 chocolate coated varieties, all at 140 calories a recyclable tin. This marketing driven company ("cacao, culture, cool") is proud of the fact that svelte celebs like Eva Longoria and Sarah Jesica Parker snack on the nibs and stay, well, svelte. Other Fancy Food participants with note-worthy nib creations were Amano (who now sells 6 origin-based varieties of roasted nibs) and Coco-luxe (debuting their new Roark bar, studded with nibs). The name is based on the protagonist in Ayn Rand's The Fountainhead. The skyscraper on the packaging pays homage to his devotion to architecture (and himself, of course).

2) Spice
There is no holding some chocolate makers back when it comes to adding heat to chocolate. At several Fancy Food chocolate stops, I was happy to have gourmet crackers from the next both over to cleanse my palate and offer some relief. One of the hottest I tried was the Chuao Firecracker bar. Founded by two Venezuelan brothers, Chuao Chocolatier is no stranger to the spicy side of chocolate. Another best selling bar is the Spicy Maya, with pasilla chile, cinnamon and cayenne pepper. The Firecracker bar has pop rocks(see trend #7), chipolte and salt. The least appealing spicy/exotic bar I sampled was the New Tree Thyme and Flax seed. For me, the thyme and flax completely overpowered the chocolate. But I kind of believe, just like there is a person for everyone, there has got to be consumer for every kind of chocolate bar. Just not me, thank you.

3) Toffee
While some go for spice, others love chocolate confections that hearken back to childhood. This widespread love of toffee may coincide with the popularity of comfort desserts (like sticky toffee pudding) in San Francisco restaurants, compared to ground-breaking savory treats from pastry chefs like Boris Portnoy and Elizabeth Faulkner. The best toffee I sampled today was from Cary's of Oregon, which, lucky for us, is also available at Cocoa Bella. I was happy to see that some chocolate makers, including SF's Poco Dolce and Vosges, are experimenting with toffee bars. After noting that their Toffee tiles topped the sales charts, Poco Dolce just unveiled 4 new toffee flavors. The Double Espresso variety was tasty and a welcome pick-me-up after hours of grazing. And those familiar with Vosges know that Katrina Markoff would not settle for classic toffee. Her Red Fire Toffee contains ancho and chipolte chiles, ceylon cinnamon and red fire pecans. Hot? Yes, but it won't make your eyes water.

4) Organic
Everybody's doing it, but who is doing it well? Green and Blacks and Dagoba were well represented. The best all-organic filled chocolates I tried were Jim Shepherd's Lille Belle Farms. We love sampling his unique Smoked Blue Cheese truffle on our Chocolate Tours at Cocoa Bella, as well as the Fresh Mint ganache. At the show, I tried his juicy Cherry Cordial as well as his new spicy almonds. And as for organic chocolate bars, Vosges again impressed with several new all-organic varieties. This fanciful Vosges packaging is starting to look like something I'd pick up at my yoga studio, right next to the overpriced ghee. I liked the Peanut Butter BonBon (something like the Ghirardelli filled peanut butter squares, only with big flakes of salt), but if you're part of the artisan salt backlash, then stay clear. I also liked the Habana bar, subtly filled with Ecuador plantains. The Enchanted Mushroom bar (with such a promising name!) tasted dry and dusty, and I was not convinced by the label's suggestion that the Reishi mushroom is going to make me live longer. I'll go to my acupuncturist for Chinese herbs, not my chocolate shop!

5) Chocolate and Wine
We run Chocolate and Wine Tours every Friday, so we know about the popularity of chocolate and wine. In addition to the San Francisco Chocolate Factory's Cocoa Vinosa, several other companies have put together some unique chocolate and wine offerings. A company called Sweets had samples of their new chocolate wine sticks. Once I looked at the ingredient list and saw "corn syrup" and "palm oil" I declined a taste. And then a company with a name appealing mainly to oenophiles, Brix, has created 8 oz slabs of chocolate to match with specific wines. They don't make their own chocolate, but instead blend with a Ghana bean (not so unusual) that has the "red fruit tones" critical for a good wine pairing. I was skeptical of their milk chocolate bar, which they said could pair with pinot noir, port, ice wine, rose and burgandy! With claims like that, I'm considering ordering some to try on our next few tours.

6) Single Origin
Yes, this has been the buzzword for some time now. Even Scharffen Berger, whose founders believed that blended was better, has introduced a Maker's Series of Single Origin bars. Remelters are getting in on the single origin action, and using the term to lure buyers into their Fancy Food booths. I sampled from Chocolove and Vermont's Lake Champlain, among others. The origin I was most excited to learn more about at the show was Hawaii - the only U.S. state that grows cacao. I sampled from The Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, located on the big island. And on Oahu, Malie Kai Chocolates. Both offer tours - the perfect experience to fold into your next Hawaii getaway!


7) Pop Rocks
I was surprised when I sampled Christopher Elbow's Pop Rocks bar recently at Cocoa Bella. This is taking exotic chocolate to a new level, I thought! But now it seems Pop Rocks is the go-to wacky new ingredient for a host of chocolatiers. I tried the Chauo Firecracker bar (noted above) as well as a delicious new creation from Cosmic Chocolate in Oakland. A perfect Valentines gift, their "Champagne and Rocks" bar is 64% cacao with, you guessed it, champagne and pop rocks. Classic French chef Francois Payard has even dabbled with pop rocks and chocolate, though he calls it a "guilty secret."

What do you think about these trends? Let us know at info@gourmetwalks.com, or comment here on this blog.

Salt & Chocolate

Salt and chocolate is a beautiful combination that is all the rage in the artisan chocolate scene. We must talk it up a fair amount on our Chocolate Tours, because a customer recently asked me if I've had my blood pressure checked. (My acupuncturist continues to marvel at my low blood pressure, so there!) Salt enhances the flavor of most foods, but is a particularly nice match with milk chocolate - cutting some of the sweetness and adding complexity.

When I was growing up, the only salt my mom used was the blue Morton brand with the little blonde umbrella girl. Now the world of gourmet salt is vast and almost overwhelming. Using kosher salt in any good recipe is just about a given, even for my mom. Sea salt was the first artisan salt to capture the attention of American chefs, especially those with French training. Artisan sea salts are typically natural and organic, harvested from the sea with very little treatment or refining. The mineral content and quality of the water is what creates a fine salt. The most common salt added to chocolate is fleur de sel, a type of grey sea salt. It is harvested by hand by "paludiers" in France and named for the aroma of violets created when the salt dries. Like wine, different regions produce fleur de sel of varying styles. The best known are Britanny and the Camargue, where you can horseback ride through the salt flats.

Chocolatiers also experiment with pink salts. Michael Mischer uses a Murray River sea salt, whose pink flakes come from the largest river in Australia. And Katrina Markoff of Vosges likes pink Himalayan salt mined from the Himalayan mountains in Tibet. So enough of the history lesson...What are some of my favorite salty sweet chocolate creations?

1) Charles Chocolate Cashew Bar
I love filled chocolates from Charles, but his widely available bars have never made it into my shopping cart, until now. Chuck Siegel has developed a new "Emeryville Collection" of chocolate bars exclusive to Whole Foods. I guess if you don't live in the Bay Area, Emeryville sounds exotic. Each bar features organic Straus Family cream and butter, nuts and, of course, salt. My favorite is the Cashew Bar, a blend of roasted cashews, fleur de sel and 41% milk chocolate.

2) Domori Latte Sal
This bar has made me an unofficial member of the Domori "Cult Cacao." Domori is an Italian chocolate maker that actually owns their own plantations and focuses solely on the quality of cacao - without adding vanilla or even soy lecithin. At 44% cacao, its flavor is deep and rich. Like most of the bars listed here, the addition of salt (fleur de sel here) is not overpowering and makes the chocolate even more memorably satisfying.

3) Vosges Goji Exotic Candy Bar
This Vosges milk chocolate bar is a tribute to the Himalayas - with pink Himalayan salt and the goji berry, both harvested from the mountains of Tibet. A staple of health food stores, the goji berry (also known as the wolfberry) is believed to be full of astounding nutritional benefits. But whether or not the goji berry will make us live until 252, like a famous goji loving Chinese emperor, I'll still love this Vosges bar.

4) Rococo Dark Sea Salt Artisan Bar
I know we shouldn't judge a book by its cover, but I loved Rococo even before trying the chocolate because of its beautifully unique packaging. Chantal Coady is the woman behind this British chocolate company. She specializes in unique flavor combinations (like basil and persian lime), but this simple sea salt and milk chocolate is one of her best. The bar is 37% cacao, all organic. The plastic wrapping displays various antique French molds Coady uses for her bars, and as a bonus, is re-sealable.

5) Michael Mischer Milk Chocolate with Toffee and Murray River Sea Salt
When customers on our Chocolate Tours say they like toffee, I won't hesitate to direct them to this bar. Toffee and chocolate is quite sweet, and so the addition of salt just makes sense. The bar is 38% cacao milk chocolate, made by hand in his small Oakland kitchen. Like all Michael Mischer bars, the clear packaging showcases the beauty of the bar within.

6) Recchiuti Fleur de Sel Caramel
Nearly every modern chocolatier makes a fleur de sel piece. But there are many ways to do this. Some are just too heavy handed with the salt for my taste. Others are quite goopy, when I prefer a thicker ganache center. That is why the Michael Recchiuti fleur de sel is my first choice when I'm looking for a salty sweet filled chocolate. It's a pretty little piece, enrobed in bittersweet chocolate and marbleized with Venezuelan white chocolate.